Tuesday, 20 January 2026

Tortilis - Day 3 AM

We said our goodbyes at breakfast to the solo lady who's moving on to stay at the Rhino Conservation in Laikipia today and with just 4 of us in the truck now we could spread out a bit.  

I'd very much been hoping we'd see Craig, the largest tusker in Amboseli, Kenya and the World but sadly he died of natural causes only a couple of weeks ago aged 54.  I was sure Dickson would have been able to use his magic powers to find Craig for us but it wasn't to be - so here's a photo of the gentle giant taken by Dickson.


Simon said (put your hands in the air - hahaha!) that there are thought to be 9 super tuskers (each tusk weighing 100+ lbs) around and suggested we try and fine one this morning.

We have a family of Dik Dik's living just outside our tent - I love their weird little noses.


There were only 3 adult Bat Eared Foxes out of the den this morning, but I was able to get a slightly better photo.


Taita Fiscal (which is a first for us, we thought it was a Fiscal Shrike but its back is light grey). I don't know if it has the same gruesome habit as a Fiscal Shrike of impaling its prey on thorns giving rise to a common name of Butcher Bird.


D'Arnaud's Barbet, there were a pair but not close enough to get in the same shot.


Another Kori Bustard


f. Wattled Starling - I think the wattle is only really visible on the male during the breeding season.



We're certainly seeing more and more scrub hares around in the daytime.


Common Kestrel


We had a beautifully clear view of Mt Kilimanjaro.


Add a few elephants to the scene and it's even more spectacular.



We sat quietly whilst the herd crossed over the track and continued its journey.



Cattle Egret hitching a ride.



After they'd passed us, they reshaped into a long string, presumably as they no longer needed to keep the young ones protected.  I think I counted 18.


White-browed Coucal


This image shows the white brow much clearer.


This very handsome bird is Red-Tailed Shrike which is migratory so it's not surprising we haven't seen it before.


The snow is clearly visible on the top of Mt Kili.


An Isabelline Wheatear


Another Little Bee Eater



Which kindly treated me to a fly past.


There were a dozen or so Splendid Starlings on the one tree and they reminded me of jewelled Christmas decorations.


Across the water was a fairly large flock of White Pelicans.


Simon was spot on with his super tusker tracking and we duly found Esau, a 36 year old super tusker heading for the swamp area.  We drove on ahead as I'd asked Simon if we could get head on shots.  Down in the swamp this lone male was enjoying himself in the mud.


Our first sight of Esau as he crested the hill - don't tell me we've found the only photo phobic elephant in the area!


Luckily he soon dropped his trunk and walked towards us.  Unfortunately for photographic purposes, he was fitted with a tracking collar in 2024 to help protect him when he crosses from the safe haven of Amboseli into Tanzania where trophy hunting has resumed in certain areas 😠😠😠😠


Isn't he just fabulous!  And well done to Simon for finding him in such a perfect setting on the horizon as it makes it look like I'm shooting at ground level



I suddenly noticed on the horizon a f. warthog with a couple of wiglets suckling.


So I waited a few moments for Esau to walk into shot.


He then turned and changed direction, heading directly for the swamp behind us.  What a privilege to be there - just us 5 in our truck - whilst this legendary animal allowed us to share his space.



Meanwhile the wiglets came for a closer look.


But their boldness didn't last for long.


Two other large males had been enjoying a wallow in the swamp and one was in musth.

Musth is a, natural, periodic state in mature male elephants (25+ yo) characterized by a massive surge in testosterone (up to 60–100 times higher than normal), resulting in extreme aggression, increased reproductive activity, and high-intensity behaviour. It generally only happens once a year and can last from a few weeks to months, featuring physical signs like temporal gland secretion and urine dribbling.  The smell, often described as a thick, sickly-sweet odour mixed with a rank pong and frequently compared to a mixture of flowers, clover, and skunk was quite overpowering and the leakage quite noticeable.  Luckily for us though he showed no signs of agression as he walked by close to the truck.





He then proceeded to dust himself and luckily for us and my camera sensor we were upwind so didn't get covered in muck.



Time to leave the elephants in peace and just around the corner was this Goliath Heron which standing at 4-5' is the largest heron in the world.


Unusually these hippos were out of the water in the mid morning heat.


These wildebeest were just walking along seemingly minding their own business.


When one decided to chase another.



The ostriches totally ignored the ruckus and so did these elephants enjoying a drink. 



They settled down eventually and went back to an orderly line.



This twisted horns on this water buck are beautiful.


Not sure why it's poking its tongue out on us though!


We then came to this small flock of Grey Crowned Cranes which gave us a beautiful showing.






A Jacana perfectly demonstrating why they're known as the Jesus Christ bird - because it seems like they walk on water.



Giraffe have such a dainty way of walking, with both legs on one side moving simultaneously.


Whereas when the run, the front two legs move together, followed by the back two.


Although this one looks more like it's pronking.



Giraffe have certainly adapted well to eating prickly acacia trees.


We haven't seen any kingfishers so far but this Grey-Headed one posed beautifully.


Just as we were driving back into camp this fabulously attired member of staff walked by.  I know he doesn't look overly happy but I didn't check it was ok to photograph him. 


Imagine walking with these long pointy things on the front and large rings on the back of your sandals.


Well I'm just about ready for a lie down now - what a truly wonderful morning!